A chance meeting with Tracey Emin, a surprise invitation to a private view, live music in quirky venues, a tour of the Counter Editions print studio at Carl Freedman Gallery, an early morning sea sauna and so much more. Welcome to 24 hours in Margate!
The reason for my visit? To find out what the buzz is all about and to track down my distant cousin Joline Kwakkenbos at TKE Studios who, like me, moved from Holland to the UK and works as an artist.
Read all about my experiences, get tips for upcoming exhibitions, see what’s on, and discover how Margate’s artists’ community inspired me and made me feel incredibly welcome.
First stop: Meeting my distant cousin
My artist friend @art_satsuma, recently posted about a group exhibition at TKE Studios. The name “Kwakkenbos” immediately caught my attention because it’s my grandmother’s maiden name. Having lived in Holland for 21 years without ever encountering that name, seeing it in England made me very curious, so I DMed Joline Kwakkenbos. After some investigation, we discovered that we are indeed related: my grandmother and her grandfather were cousins!
I’d heard so many great things about Margate that it was about time I went there to investigate and track down my distant cousin, who, like me, works as an artist. What are the chances of that?
I travelled to Margate, England’s original seaside town, by train. Apart from an overnight stay at the famous Walpole Bay Hotel, I was happy to let fate lead the way.
My first stop was TKE Studios, where I met the talented Joline. She kindly showed me her studio and talked about her colourful self-portraits.
My work is about the plurality of my own identity, and how I relate to the world around me. I mainly paint self-portraits, which deal with my childhood, my queer identity and being a ‘woman’ – Joline Kwakkenbos
As we were chatting, Tracey Emin suddenly appeared with a group of visitors who were on a private tour of the studios. I’d only been in Margate a couple of hours, and I had already met Britain’s most celebrated female artist!
Love of art is number one for me. Number two is love for Margate. It is an impoverished place, which is regaining more and more pride in itself through investment in art. – Tracey
Inspiring philanthropy: TKE Studios
After Tracey’s bladder cancer ordeal, she decided to commit all her wealth to a foundation to help artists and art in the UK. In 2021, Tracey bought a former Edwardian bathhouse, a mortuary, and a children’s nursery. The bathhouse features two entrances, one marked “men” and the other “ladies.” It is brilliant.
The entire site was completely renovated and refurbished. The studios now offer light, comfortable, and modern exhibition, lecture, and gallery spaces. I am hugely impressed with Tracey’s mission and philanthropy. She has also been buying properties in Margate to provide affordable accommodation for her artists.
The gallery is open to the public on Saturdays and Sundays from 12 pm to 4 pm. I highly recommend a visit.
Reconnecting with artist Vanessa Raw
About three years ago, I met artist Vanessa Raw through Adoreum, a business club to which I belong.
Watching Vanessa’s style evolve over the past few years has been fascinating; she now focuses exclusively on sensual female nudes. When I visited, Vanessa was busy finishing her paintings for her upcoming solo exhibition. It was a joy to see her surrounded by huge, vibrant canvases, creating an almost otherworldly atmosphere.
Exhibition: On Earth We Weren’t Meant To Stay
Carl Freedman Gallery, Margate
30 June – 8 September 2024
Left: Vanessa Raw in her beautiful studio surrounded by large paintings.
Right: We Create Gods, 2023, 150 x 170cm Oil on linen.
Turner Contemporary
Turner Contemporary, located on the site of the boarding house where the Romantic painter JMW Turner stayed during his visits to Margate, celebrates the artist’s connection with the town’s skies and light. Turner famously remarked: “the skies over Thanet are the loveliest in all Europe.”
On my visit, the upstairs galleries were unfortunately closed due to an exhibition changeover.
However, the ground floor gallery featured an exhibition by American artist Lynda Benglis, which took my breath away. The three polished sculptures were phenomenal, perfectly framed by the large window with sea view.
The upstairs galleries will open on 25 May for the Ed Clark exhibition.
Margot Bandola private view at the Pie Factory
Exhibition: Thick Salt Keeps Us Up
Pie Factory May 16th – 28th May
As I was strolling through the lovely streets of the Old Town, I peeked into a gallery window. A gentleman swiftly came out and invited me to Margot Bandola’s private view that evening. Since I was travelling solo and didn’t have any solid plans, I decided to attend after first enjoying a tasty pizza at Great British Pizza by the seafront. Sadly, no magnificent sunset for me that evening.
Margot Bandola’s work is very expressionistic and surreal, featuring many imaginative motifs, forms and creatures. The longer you study one of her paintings, the more you discover. The multi layering and intuitive approach really inspired me.
When I first entered the gallery – a former pork butcher’s and pie factory – I assumed there were only a couple of rooms. However, as I ventured further, I found more wonderful spaces with many original features.
That evening, I met many fascinating creatives and kindred spirits. Everyone made me feel so welcome and I felt right at home.
Spaces with varying textures and patterns create a stunning backdrop for contemporary art. Margot and her musician husband, Mark Bandola, were incredibly welcoming and kind. Mark was formerly in a rock band called The Lucy Show. This entire trip came about by chance, and this serendipitous encounter added yet another layer of fun to my adventure.
Studio Lenca exhibition at Carl Freedman Gallery
Carl Freedman Gallery
Studio Lenca
‘Leave to Remain’ exhibition
14 April – 16 June 2024
An unexpected tour of the print studio Counter Editions.
The stockroom is perfectly organised, and the screen-printing area is spotless. This is a beautiful 18-colour screen-pint ‘Sunset Moon Bird’ (2023) by Ann Craven. It’s a limited edition of 100.
I arrived too late to attend the Studio Lenca talk, but I was fortunate enough to join a group of visitors on a tour of the Counter Editions print studios above the gallery.
Founded in 2000, Counter Editions commissions and produces prints & multiples by leading international contemporary artists.
I have visited and worked in many print studios, but I have never seen one as spotless, organized, and modern as this. Designed with care by Carl Freedman himself, the studio’s impeccable environment positively affects everyone who works there, including the artists, as the managing printer explained to me.
Super intimate music venue Rosslyn Court
After all the fabulous art, I was ready for some live music. Rosslyn Court is a unique music venue and B&B located in a large Victorian villa in the heart of bohemian Cliftonville. Owner Morag, who is a tiny, friendly lady, kindly let me have a seat at the back, despite the performance being sold out. It felt very intimate, as if I were sitting in Morag’s living room!
Morag is a carpenter and music lover with a passion for supporting local talent and fostering the independent arts and music culture. Musician Pete Doherty is a frequent visitor and he has performed several times. I really enjoyed the warm welcome and friendly atmosphere.
English singer-songwriter and record producer Boo Hewerdine entertaining the crowd not just with his beautiful music, but also with his great sense of humour.
More music: The Waste Land at the Albion Rooms
Without even knowing what this beautiful townhouse with sea view is about, I was naturally drawn to it as I walked past earlier that day. I soon discovered it is the Albion Rooms with a live music venue in the basement called The Waste Land, created by The Libertines.
Come in – relax, write, record and explore a living art space that compels you to indulge in whatever whims take your fancy. – The Libertines
As I went for a stroll, I came across the Tom Thumb Theatre in Cliftonville near my hotel. It was originally built as a Victorian coach house and I think the architecture is absolutely magical. In 1984, the building was transformed into one of the smallest theatres in the world, boasting just 40 velvet seats.
Unfortunately, I couldn’t see the theatre itself as it was closed that evening, but I did visit the upstairs bar, which is utterly charming. I am keen to return and enjoy the variety of theatre, music, film, comedy, poetry, and cabaret performances that are hosted there. What a gem.
Stay at the quirky WalpoleBay Hotel
Left: The beautiful and cosy, flower-decked terrace with sea views.
Right: Wander the hotel corridors and you will find vintage treasure everywhere.
My friend recommended the historic and family-run Walpole Bay Hotel in Cilftonville. As soon as you walk through the doors, you are transported back to 1914, when the hotel was built for discerning guests. An original 1927 Otis Trellis gated lift takes you to the hotel’s Museum and The Napery Gallery, which are brilliant. There is so much to explore and it comes as no surprise that the Walpole Bay Hotel is often used as a film location.
The Magic of Spontaneity
I love how a chance observation led to the discovery that I have a distant cousin in the UK who is also an artist. This revelation inspired me to finally visit Margate. Despite being an impoverished seaside town, it has a vibrant and creative heart that beats loudly.
Without too much planning, I allowed chance to lead the way. Travelling solo meant I got to meet many fascinating and creative people, who gave me a true insight into Margate’s artistic life.
Working primarily in the wedding and event industry, I’m not as immersed in the art scene as other fine artists. However, hearing their stories and learning about their artistic approaches has sparked fresh ideas for my own work.
I encourage everyone to be more spontaneous whenever possible. Don’t put things off until a later, “more suitable” date because that day may never come.
Carpe Diem and enjoy life!
